Setting up Terminal Tackle for Flounder (Live Bait)

by "Fishcat" AKA Don

I use about a 20- or 24-inch piece of 25-lb flourocarbon leader (Walmart; P-Line, I think) clinch-knot tied to a black swivel on one end and a 2/0 or 3/0 single flounder hook on the other (Academy, forget the brand but it is labeled "flounder hook" in orange packaging). For the noise maker part, I use a brass cylinder weight (fresh-water section at Academy) with red glass (not plastic) beads on either side and crimped in place (not too hard!) with one sleeve about six inches from the swivel end. This allows the beads and swivel to slide on the leader about six inches. The leader below the weight is longer than most people use, but I think it gives the tail-hooked mullet more flash and action. It also allows for several hook replacements for released (cut-off) fish.  The weights come in a variety of sizes. I prefer the 3/8 oz.

I always chunk out, then drag back with the rod tip two or three feet, then take up the slack. My theory is, on the the slack part of the retrieve, the mullet swims away driving the stationary weight and beads towards the swivel and producing a "click". The subsequent pull back with the rod tip forces the bait downward and sends the weight to the stopping sleeve with another "click". I can actually feel and see this happening by lifting and dropping the baited rig by my feet in the water.

The cylindrical brass weight has several advantages in my opinion. The cylinder shape drags through obstacles with less chance of hanging up. The single hook helps in that regard also. Being brass, the weight also produces a distinctive "click" and finally, the weight is flashy, adding to visibilty. The rig costs more than lead weights and plastic beads, but seems to work.