"Gearing Up"

by Bayman AKA Mike

Over the years, one of the most frequently asked questions on any fishing board is what kind of rod should I have and how do I work this lure? In truth there are a million answers to these questions, as many of us have our own personal preferences and favorites. Here are a few suggestions from my experience and some information that has been picked up from the board.

Rods come in many different styles, actions, lengths and materials. There are several dozen rod makers and many anglers have personal preference toward one or the other. The bottom line is that there is not one single rod that will be a "wonder rod" and handle all the different types of saltwater lures. For throwing soft plastic baits that are light, 1/8 to ¼ oz. you should have a sensitive light action rod. The light action tip allows longer cast’s and will afford a better action to the bait. Your soft plastics rod should be the most sensitive rod in your arsenal. A good, high modulus graphite rod is a must in this situation. This rod will be your highest cost item. For throwing soft plastics, I like a 7’ rod for extra distance. When working soft plastics, let the fish dictate your pattern. In the summer, a fast, pumping retrieve will probably draw more strikes. In the fall and spring, a slower retrieve that allows the bait to bounce up and down off the bottom will be most effective. For the colder months, a slow drag with a slight bump every now and then should draw some strikes. This is when rod sensitivity needs to be the highest.

The second rod in your arsenal should be used for hard baits and slow sinking lures like a Corky or Mirrolure. This rod needs to be sensitive, but not as sensitive as your soft plastics rod. This rod should be a little stiffer than your soft plastics rod, but you don’t necessarily want it to be a broomstick either. A medium-light rod works perfect in this situation. When working topwater baits, the tip is stiff enough to allow the bait to walk with ease, but not too limber. To soft of a rod when working topwaters will wear you out by the end of the day. When working topwaters you want to just twitch your rod tip in a consistent motion to allow the bait to walk across the surface. Again, the fish will dictate the speed. During the winter months a slow/stop walking action will allow more blowups versus a constant walk in the summer. When throwing a slow sinker, allow the bait to drop to the desired depth and then make sharp twitches with your rod tip. It’s advantageous to allow the bait to stop and suspend at different intervals during your retrieve. You’ll find that a suspending bait does its best work when sitting. I prefer a 6 ½’ rod for working topwaters and hard baits.

The third rod within your grasp should be a live bait rod. This rod doesn’t need the sensitivity of the others, but should still have some feel. I prefer a 7 ½-8’ rod with a fast tip in medium-light to medium action for live bait. This allows for long casts and hook sets that will not pull the hook out of your catches mouth. When bottom fishing, the extra rod length allows you to hold your line up off the shell.

So many variables go into your rod choices and lure selection. The main thing to consider is what feels good to you. It doesn’t matter if it’s a Gloomis or a Kmart special, if it feels good in your hands, use it. If you get a new rod, practice with it. Some rods have such a difference in weight that it may take several trips before you get a good feel of it. I got a new rod for Christmas and it was so much different than the previous one I was using that I’m still trying to get used to it. As usual though " If it feels good, do it!"